The base for your ceramic table can continue its life as an ornamental table base for an altogether different tabletop. Since the common ceramic table base consists of a tough metal frame supported on metal legs, it can support a bargain of weight. That’ll enable you to connect a concrete tabletop of the same size. The concrete surface can be pre-tinted to a selection of appealing colors, or it can accept lots of different styles of ornamental finishes.
Items you’ll need
- 3 / 4-inch thick melamine veneer particleboard
- Sabre saw or hand saw
- 2-1/4 inch drywall screws
- Electric drill with 1/16-inch drill bit
- Phillips-head screwdriver
- Silicon caulk in squeeze tube
- Ready-mix countertop concrete
- Concrete pigment (optional)
- Decorative concrete aggregate (optional)
- Mixing bucket
- Anti-stick cooking spray
- Galvanized steel reinforcing mesh
- Concrete trowel
- Work gloves
- Plastic sheeting or heavyweight dropcloth
- Plastic putty knife
- Muriatic acid substitute
- Water-based concrete sealant
- Paint brush
Measure the old ceramic table top. Your table base can support the same dimensions of a concrete table top.
Create a concrete putting mold by first cutting a piece of 3/4-inch thick melamine to the desired table top size and shape, using a sabre saw or hand saw. This will become the base of your mold (See References 1, 2, 3).
Form the edges of the mold utilizing 2-1/2 inch broad strips of melamine, cut to fit each side. If the table top will be rectangular shaped, you’ll should cut four different pieces to fit each of the four sides (See References 1, 2, 3).
Drill a series of small pilot holes 10 to 12 inches apart through the melamine and into the plywood. Place 2-1/4 inch drywall screws with the holes to hold the melamine edges snugly in location, with the bottom edges of the mold’s side pieces aligned flush down edge of the melamine base (See References 1, 2, 3).
Apply a smooth, thin bead of quick-drying silicon caulk to the seam where the melamine fulfills the plywood. Permit the caulk 24 hours to totally heal before mixing the concrete (See References 1, 2, 3).
Mix up a set of ready-mix countertop concrete in a plastic bucket according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For best results, use a drill-mounted combining paddle to accomplish the smoothest feasible blend. If you want to add color to the concrete, a pigment can be blended in at this stage of your process. Countertop concrete will be significantly drier than a concrete patching mix made use of for driveway or foundation repair, and it needs to attain the consistency of cake batter when mixed appropriately (See References 1, 2).
Coat the inside of your mold with a type release agent, such as an anti-stick cooking spray (See References 1, 2).
Slowly pour enough of your concrete mix into the mold to fill it to the halfway point (See References 1, 2).
Cut a piece of reinforcing galvanized steel mesh to accurately fit the mold to within one-half inch of its edges (See References 1, 2).
Put on a pair of work gloves, and gently push the steel mesh into leading part of the poured concrete (See Reference 1, 2). Make certain to focus the mesh, leaving a 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch verge on all sides.
Pour the added concrete into place till the mold is virtually filled on all sides (See Reference 1, 2).
Smooth the concrete surface with a trowel till it’s smooth and level without any spaces or voids (See Reference 1, 2).
Allow the concrete to dry for 4 to 5 days (See Reference 1, 2). You can tell the concrete is sufficiently dry when it’s really slightly pulled itself away from the mold.
Remove the screws that are holding the melamine to the mold. Use a thin plastic putty knife to assist peel the melamine away from the concrete. When the edges have actually been eliminated, meticulously flip the concrete benefit down onto a number of 2-by-4s and remove the remaining portion of the mold, using the putty knife to help separate the melamine from the concrete. Leave the concrete in place for an additional 6 to eight hours.
Wait an added 48 hours, then seal the concrete utilizing a non-toxic water based sealant (See References 4 and 5, page 166-168). Many sealant makers suggest making use of muriatic acid or trisodium phosphate (TSP) to prepare the concrete prior to sealing, however eco safe substitutes are now commonly readily available.
Mount the concrete in the same position once occupied by the ceramic table base.
- To supply extra glimmer to your tabletop, you can stir in some refined chips of colored glass or ceramic materials to your concrete mix at Step 6.
- Your table– sans ceramic table top– could also serve as a framework for young hanging plants. In warm weather, the table base can be used outdoors, and in cold weather the base can relocate indoors where the plants might be sustained by energy-efficient compact fluorescent floodlights.
- When you peel the mold off of your tabletop, the concrete might appear rough or unequal. You can smooth the concrete using a variable speed grinder and diamond grinding pads. Start by applying a coarse grade where needed, then progressively move to making use of finer grades of grinding pads uniformly over the entire surface.